Archives January 2009 : New Item & Review

JFF New Item & Review :

Victoria Lansford’s
Metal Techniques of Bronze Age Masters: Rings DVD

After watching this DVD, I couldn’t get over the amount of content. It is packed full of information, I felt as though I just finished a weekend workshop class with Victoria.

This DVD is definitely geared for the intermediate to advanced jeweler, meaning you must know how to solder. The tips and tricks offered throughout make this DVD helpful not only to make rings, but to work on other projects, including making a hinge, a hollow form, etc..

The video demonstrations offer zoomed in shots of soldering, setting, and other techniques. A few shots are slightly out of focus but are quickly adjusted. Overall the video quality is good.

The DVD is divided into six sections. The first section is on Bezels which covers making your own bezel wire from alloying your own 22K gold and rolling the ingot in the rolling mill. Very cool! In the second section, Victoria guides you through making your own bi-metal using the left over alloyed 22K gold made in the 1st section. The ring shank section, Victoria guides you through the process of making the basic ring shank you will be using in the projects. The three final sections cover the projects that are taught on the Rings DVD; Wax Seal ring, Drusy Ring, and Poison Ring.

The Rings video also gives access to an online PDF booklet with written instructions and photographs. Taking all into account, I give this DVD an A+.

Archives January 2009 : Jeweler of the Month

Jeweler of the Month :
Jamie Cassavoy

Bio
I got my start in the jewelry making industry when I decided to go back to school and get an MFA in metalsmithing and design. I graduated from RIT School for American Craft in 1996 and from there worked for a couple of years for B.A.Ballou in East Providence, RI. B.A. Ballou is a large manufacturer of precious metal jewelry. There, I worked as a model maker. They were and still are a fixture in the findings and fine finished jewelry business.

In 1998, I moved to Birmingham, Alabama to live closer to my family and start my own jewelry design business, Cassavoy and Company. Today my company is based out of Atlanta.

From the beginning, the goal of my company, Cassavoy & Company, has been to make limited production and one of a kind jewelry made by hand. From sterling silver, 18K gold and precious and semi-precious gems, my staff and I handcraft each piece. My collection is constantly evolving, consisting of about 120 pieces that are all produced in my home studio.

What was your first piece?
A fabulous pair of sterling earrings that were designed using a photo of an antique chair for inspiration.

Who are your jewelry heroes?
Barbara Heinrich, Sydney Lynch, Harold O'Connor, Jacqueline Ryan, Biba Schutz

What is your design inspiration?
Nature - anything botanical really, all of the trees and flowers outside my studio window.

What is your favorite part of making jewelry?
The ability to be creative on a daily basis and to make things that have the potential to make someone feel like a million bucks.

What is on your bench now?
A lot of rubble and parts left over from the holiday rush plus new ideas for the upcoming additions to my line.

What is your most indispensable tool?
That great silicon wheel that Dallas suggested I buy. That and my flex shaft. (The Artifex Wheel)

Archives January 2009 : Tool of the Month

Tool of the Month :
Torches

For my birthday this year, I got my second torch, an oxy propane set up. Which is shocking if you would have asked me about owning two torches, let alone one torch, a mere 4 years ago. I was afraid of holding something that would have a flame coming out of the end and having a bottle of gas sitting there so close to it! FORGET IT!

As I started taking jewelry classes and working more seriously at JFF, I started to realize that (1) torches are necessary for most jewelry making and (2) torches aren’t scary as long as you are smart and take safety seriously. I did some research, i.e. talked to Hans, Dallas and my teachers, and picked out the torch that worked best for me. My first torch was the Smith Acetylene-Air torch.

Before getting a torch it is important to decide which torch is best for you. As with most tools, we at JFF suggest to not only think about what you are doing today, but think about getting a torch that will be more versatile as your projects evolve.

The Prince Butane Torch is the most basic torch we have at JFF. It is the same torch used in cooking to caramelize sugar, think crème brule. This torch works well for soldering closed small jump rings made of silver and copper. However, this torch is very limiting as it doesn’t produce a large enough flame to do larger pieces, such as rings, bracelets, etc. The Prince Butane torch is $56.50* and sold without fuel. The butane refills are $5.95*.

The Whale Torch is a propane atmospheric (also known as propane-air) torch. An atmospheric torch uses the surrounding air to draw the necessary oxygen to mix with the gas to produce a hot flame. Therefore, a second tank of oxygen is not necessary. The Whale torch uses valves designed to fit either a disposable propane tank or a small refillable propane tank, lowering the cost of the torch. It works well for general purpose soldering and annealing of silver and copper.

The torch comes with three different sized tips for more defined or larger flames. While the Whale torch is a good option for a beginner, the propane-air mixture offers limitations as far as soldering larger pieces and soldering gold are concerned. The Whale torch is $113.25*, including the 3 tips, handle, hose, and valve for either a disposable or refillable propane tank**.

Acetylene-air torches are also atmospheric torches that produce a hotter flame than the propane-air torches. These torches by design can produce a more controlled, smaller flame for more precise work or a larger, bushy flame for larger vessels. The acetylene-air torches come with a regulator that fits on a B-sized Acetylene tank***. There are two popular acetylene air torches available, the Goss or the Smith.

The Goss torch is commonly used in jewelry making classes for its more economical price. It has a single gauge on the regulator, allowing you to know the fullness of the tank. However, the regulator does not have standard hose fittings, so if a second torch is in your future, you would need to purchase an adaptor for the hook up. The bulbous handle of the torch is made of plastic and has four torch tip sizes available. The Goss torch kit comes with a regulator, hose, the most popular sized torch tip, handle, tank key, and striker*** pricing in at $132*.

The Smith torch has a double gauge regulator with standard fittings and a warranty. The double gauge on the regulator allows you not only to know how full the tank is, but to control the pressure of the acetylene. This allows for the ability to have a hotter flame, greater control for fine flame adjustment and consistent fuel pressure. The Smith torch has a slim nickel plated handle with six available torch tips. This torch comes with a regulator, hose, the smallest torch tip, handle, tank key and striker***. The Smith kit is $204*.

Oxygen-Fuel torches are characterized by having two separate cylinders or tanks. One with oxygen and the other with a fuel, like propane or acetylene. These torches have a much hotter, smaller flame because of the combustion reaction from mixing the oxygen with the fuel. The most common fuel used in jewelry making is propane, the flame is hot enough for gold and even platinum**** and burns clean. However, some people choose to use acetylene, natural gas, or MAPP gas. When choosing an oxy fuel torch there are four torches to choose from depending on your soldering needs.

The Meco Midget Torch is built like a tank. The handle and tips are made out of solid brass and uses regular welding hoses. The Midget torch has three tips available. Although this torch lacks the bells and whistles of other oxy-fuel torches, this torch cannot be beat for its durability. The Meco Midget torch is sold with a handle, three tips and hose connectors***** for $170*.

The Hoke torch is least expensive oxy-fuel torch available. The torch body is made in China of cast steel and is nickel plated. The advantage of the Hoke torch is the tip size range. It not only has three standard size tips, but also has an adaptor kit that allows for the use of Micro tips. These tips quickly change in and out allowing for a much smaller precise flame. The Hoke torch is $47.90*, including the three standard tips and the torch handle*****. The adapter kit is $17.95*.
The Smith Little Torch is our best selling torch. This torch has an aluminum body and is light weight. It is the most ergonomic torch on the market. The Little Torch offers seven different sizes of tips and also has a rosebud tip that allows for casting and soldering larger pieces. The Little Torch is sold with hoses and five tips for $119*. JFF also stocks a complete torch set up including the Little Torch kit, two regulators, oxygen tank, propane tank**, and carrier for $495*.

The last torch is the casting torch. This torch has a larger mixing chamber in the handle, producing a larger flame with a higher volume of BTUs. The casting torch is sold in separate pieces, the handle is $98.45* and tips range in price from $30 to $60*.

*prices may change without warning
**The propane tanks are sold empty, JFF does not fill/refill propane.
***Acetylene tanks are sold separately for $135* initially, refills are available for $21*.
****The most popular torch for Platinum work is a Hydrogen Torch.
*****Hoses, regulators, and oxygen and gas cylinders can be purchased separately.

Archives December 2008 : Question & Answer

Q:

Does everyone who works at JFF make jewelry?

A:

Most everyone at JFF has some sort of background in jewelry.

Hans started out as a hand engraver in Germany. He moved to America to open a jewelry store with his partner, Otto (Which is how JFF began). Hans has a vast background in engraving, plating, and steamers, just to name a few categories! However, he no longer does hand engraving.

Dallas, has worked in jewelry supply stores since he was 14. He has worked extensively in casting, but also in stone setting, gold and platinum. Today, Dallas keeps busy with his four children, but will sometimes play with his tools in his work room.

Christina grew up working at JFF, but never made jewelry until recently. She mostly works in silver and gold.

Mary has worked at JFF for about 20 years, but has yet to catch the jewelry making bug! We are still trying to get her to the dark side :)!

Archives December 2008 : New Item

JFF New Item :
PEPE Mitre Jig

A mitre jig is an essential tool to any jewelers bench. This jig is endlessly useful for making precise for cutting, bending, scoring, or filing sheet and wire in 90° and 45°angles. Mitre jigs are made of a high quality tool steel so that you can saw and file* directly against the jig and not damage the jig or your file!

In addition to the 90° and 45° angles traditional mitre jigs provide, the PEPE version offers a third angle of 60°. The PEPE mitre jig is made of super hard Russian Military tool steel (hardness 62-65 RC). It measures 1 7/8" x 2 3/4" and has 9 grooves designed to hold a wide range of wire and tubing up to 1/2" thick. The lower opening is is for making 90° bends, cuts and angles; the middle opening for 60° or 120° bends, cuts and angles and the upper opening holds your stock for making 45° or 135° bends, angles and cuts. Supplied with an adjustable stop for making repeat cuttings of the same length and a hex key for fixing the stop. The jig can be mounted in a vise or held in the hand. It is also great for cutting tubing.

Like all of PEPE’s tools, their Mitre Jig offers high quality with a lower price than the Swiss Bergeon or French-made mitre jigs. The PEPE Mitre Jig is $115*.

*prices may change without notice
**Be careful of certain files, as in Grobet Valtitan files and hardware store files. They are as hard or harder than the jig and can mark the vise.

Archives December 2008 : Jeweler of the Month

Jeweler of the Month :
Kristin Wilder

Bio
Kristin began taking jewelry making classes at Chastain Arts Center in 1995 after being inspired by a co-workers handmade keychain. She studied there for several years before realizing her inner need to further explore the fundamentals and foundations of art and design leading her to venture into a formal art program at Georgia State University. Kristin worked tirelessly to maintain her work in the direction of metalsmithing by incorporating metal techniques into every studio class. While in school she volunteered at The Spruill Center for the Arts as a lab assistant and open studio monitor in order to stay connected to the art medium she loved most.

After graduating Summa Cum Laude at Georgia State University with a Bachelors in Studio Art in 2006 and eager to remain in a creative environment, Kristin worked any job remotely related to her passion. She began her career at Spruill as the Before and After Care provider for their Summer Camp Program and Camp Instructor. She was quickly offered a part-time position as a Registrars Assistant. After a year in the front office at Spruill she decided to focus her time on teaching beginning jewelry classes to adults and teens. Now teaching up to six classes a week ranging in all levels Kristin also serves as the Department Coordinator at Spruill where her focus is program development and educational outreach.

Kristin works on her art and production by translating her own artistic style through unique one of a kind works of art including small sculptures, mixed media images and sterling silver jewelry with semi-precious stones. As a current instructor, Department Coordinator, and a founding member of Fireball Collective Kristin shares her passion for all things creative with her students, friends and co-workers.

What was your first piece?
The first piece of jewelry I ever made was a ring out of a twist tie from a loaf of white bread. I eat wheat now.

Who are your jewelry heroes?
I am constantly inspired and impressed by my students and friends. They are my everyday heroes. I am amazed at what my students are able to accomplish and overcome by simply taking a few hours a week for themselves. They teach me so much and help me to recognize the importance of patience, versatility, and keeping an open mind.
I am very fortunate to have so many talented artists in my life.

What is your design inspiration?
I get inspiration from the natural world around me, myths, folklore, music, and my son.

What is your favorite part of making jewelry?
My favorite part of making jewelry is experimentation and problem solving how a piece will go together.

What is on your bench now?
Earrings that my son is making out of patterned copper discs.

What is your most indispensable tool?
My most indispensable tool is my imagination.

Archives December 2008 : Tool of the Month

Tool of the Month :
PROXXON Bench Vise

I have about five or six vises. Please note: vises, not vices! There are different sizes and kinds of vises allowing for various tasks. My 4” industrial vise, is great for forging, holding my drawplate, and other heavy duty jobs. I have two small hand vises that provide a stronger grip than pliers for working with small items. I have about 3 small bench vises, these are good for everyday use. Of all of my bench vises, I use my PROXXON bench vise the most. It has a ball and socket joint at the base, providing endless ways to position, rotate, swivel and angle the vise.

For 30 years, Germany-based PROXXON has been supplying high-quality power tools on a smaller scale for precision work. PROXXON tools are priced economically and are recognized by their olive green and yellow color.

The PROXXON vise comes with a removable C-Clamp. With the clamp you can quickly and securely attach the vise to workbenches and tabletops up to 2 5/16" (60 mm) thick. The base of the vise has drilled and tapped holes in order to screw the vise permanently to the workbench. This provides you with the option of either clamping the vise on your workbench as you need it or bolting it permanently with two screws. Personally, I use the c-clamp with my vise because I have limited bench space.

The vise opens to a maximum of 2 3/4” (70 mm) wide. Its steel jaws are 3” (75 mm) wide with horizontal and vertical v-grooves for holding round items. Rubber protective jaw covers slide easily on and off and are included. The jaws also have accessible screws to replace the jaw plates over time.

The downside to this vise, is that the ball and socket joint creates a weak point for forging or any hammering on this vise. However, PROXXON has developed this vise with versatility in mind. The endless positioning angles provides ergonomics. No matter how your bench is set up, you can position the vise to the way it is comfortable for you.

The PROXXON vise is $46.10*.

*prices may change without notice